She explains basic and advanced stitches; shows how to make the critters’ forms by crocheting in the round; gives advice on yarns and stuffing; and offers tips on embroidering facial features and embellishments. Japanese-inspired dolls have motivated crocheters everywhere to grab their hooks and create collections of irresistibly funky-cute creatures.
After filling the leg right to the top, finish off leaving a long tail of yarn to sew onto the body later. Rnds 12 – 32: sc into each st around, placing fiberfill/stuffing into the leg halfway through these rounds then top up with fiberfill/stuffing at the end of these rounds. Place the fiberfill/stuffing into the foot. Weave in the loose end into 1st round at the tip of the toe to tighten the center.Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn to sew onto the body later. Press top of arm together so stitches match up evenly on both sides and sl st a seam to close up the top of the arm. Rnds 12 – 28: sc into each st around; placing fiberfill/stuffing into the arm halfway through these rounds then top up with fiberfill/stuffing at the end of these rounds. Place the fiberfill/stuffing into the hand. Weave in the loose end into 1st round at the tip of the hand to tighten the center. Rnd 1: working over end tail; ch 1, 6 sc into ring.
Place the fiberfill/stuffing into the body/torso. Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn to sew the head onto the body later on. Weave in the loose end into 1st round of the body/torso to tighten the center.
You can add on a few extra rounds here if you want the body longer. Make it so it is firm but not so much that it comes out between the stitches. It’s easier to lay a tape measure on the floor and cut the strands to length.
You can cut one strand and use it as a guide for the rest. Cut 45cm lengths of yarn in the color you want the hair to be. Start the hairline 5 rows above the tops of the eyes. Weave in the loose end into 1st round at the top of the head to tighten the center. This doll is crocheted in parts – head, body, arms and legs then you assemble them. La base et les extrémités sont parfois rembourrées avec de petites billes en plastique pour les équilibrer et obtenir un rendu plus vivant. Les amigurumi sont fabriqués par éléments (tête, corps, membres) qui sont ensuite assemblées, sauf pour des modèles plus simples qui n’ont qu’une tête et un torse fusionnés en une seule pièce. Ils sont également fabriqués avec un crochet de plus petite taille que celle indiquée sur les pelotes de fil à crocheter, en mailles serrées, de façon à créer un maillage très serré et sans trous, et à éviter des fuites de rembourrage. Contrairement aux techniques de crochet occidentales, les rangs de mailles sont souvent travaillés continument, en spirale, et non joints par des mailles coulées. Les amigurumi sont typiquement crochetés ou tricotés à partir d’un fil (en laine, coton ou en fibres synthétiques). Ces dernières années, les amigurimi crochetés sont plus populaires et on les rencontre plus souvent. Ce qui ressort généralement de l’esthétique des amigurumi , c'est leur caractère « mignon ». La diffusion de nouvelles techniques de tricot et de crochet offre alors une alternative pour les familles souhaitant créer des jouets pour leurs enfants. Just 15 minutes a day could change your life!
I am going to try and make this domo for my daughter. Thank you so much for all your free patterns!
Thank you so much for a great project’s idea.
I would never figure it out without your video.
This is a great pattern thank you so much for sharing it with us!
Do you think you could do a video tutorial about making a join but keeping the line of joins straight and not diagonaling around the object?
I feel this pattern is so simple, yet its driving me crazy trying to get it right!
I appreciate you posting this pattern – thanks!!!!!
I was wondering if u could please make a video for this?
Think of it like a staple that joins the end to the beginning but has no purpose other than holding them together and doesn’t act like a stitch at all or count.
I even watched your videos and still didn’t get it right.
I encouraged counting stitches and usage of stitch markers to help with any confusion. Fortunately the older a pattern is, the more diverse the questions have been and we eventually get to a point where there is a question and answer in the comments that answer most issues people are having. What makes perfect sense to one person completely befuddles another.
I think the host of problems and confusion that have happened (and been responded to) are because people are very different in how they parse information.
Ignore that little bar staple which was your slip stitch in the previous round… it’s not important. Your first single crochet fits neatly, directly on top of the first single crochet from the previous round. From here on out, this next round, only single crochet stitches exist. Once it has been made, ignore it and never speak of it again. This slip stitch is not a real stitch, think of it as a staple that binds the two together and is not a stitch at all. The last stitch in a round gets bound to the first stitch of a round by a slip stitch. The written directions are confusing but the videos are quite helpful. Could this be where some of the earlier posts concerning stitch increases are happening?
Amigurumi — Wikipédia
Thank you for the pattern and the videos!
If it’s too difficult just make it in a spiral without joining and add a felt mouth, problem solved.
You just joined the first stitch to the last stitch from the previous round, so it should be somewhat apparent which is the first stitch from the previous round. It’s fairly simple though, you begin in the same stitch you just joined your last stitch to. A tiny bit of slant is normal and will not be visible once you finish the slip stitch overlay around the mouth.
I didn’t seem to have a problem with making the larger domo, it came out fine. And like some previous comments, my stitches are off, my mouth slants to the right.
I used 6mm black safety eyes but smallish black buttons or felt cut outs would work fine as well. If any red yarn is poking through under the brown stitches, thread a tapestry needle with brown yarn and stitch underneath the brown yarn but over the red to try to cover it.
You can make this in the spiral or joined, it’s up to you. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.I surface crocheted around the mouth to add a dimensional look or to cover up the zig zag line of red and brown stitches blending. He is worked in rounds with joining every round. If you have any questions or find any bits in the instructions confusing, please leave your query in the comments so all can see any clarifying responses provided. Because this ami is small, it can be completed in 2 or fewer hours which makes for good projects for people like me who have attention deficit issues with craft projects.
I wasn’t thrilled with the felt panel for the mouth and wanted to try a crochet mouth. They are pretty quick and easy to make!!!
This tutorial demonstrate how to crochet a doll in Autumn/Winter clothing. The pattern is enclosed in the video and timer as shown ...
I used a size g hook, but a smaller one to make tighter stitches would be better.
I do that sometimes myself and it works just as well!