I received was damaged, and had stray paint marks all over her face.

I took off her factory face-up using acrylic paint brush cleaner, then redrew/recolored her with watercolor pencils and chalk pastels.

Doll Face Repaint
She looks winsome and lovely and repainting a larger-sized doll was an interesting challenge. Her body is built like a ball jointed doll, but is much cheaper than one. Draculaura and they all have that same body structure, which is jointed in more places. She is only 3, so she doesn’t care if she has messy hair or any flaws.She is kind of top heavy so if you hold her by her feet, she will just bend at the knees backwards.

I couldn’t find a brush in the box like pictured, but that isn’t a big deal. Barbie except her ankles but that doesn’t really bother me. In my opinion, this publication is indespensable not only to beginners, but also to accomplished doll artists. Once all of the issues are sold out, the shopping cart will not allow them to be purchased.

You may only purchase them in groups of 5.

Repainting BIG FAKE BARBIE HEAD / How To Draw Dolls Face, Eyes, Lips / Realistic Speedpaint Tutorial How to Repaint Big …

We have some odds and ends of secondhand doll hair that we just can’t sell on the site. This is either because they contain odd amounts of hair, or because they contain blended colors that may not be requested by a customer again for a long time. The photos on the left are some of our actual secondhand bags. To give you an idea of their size, each bag measures 6″ by 4″. If you’d like us to surprise you, please leave the space blank. The reroot kit offers the regular doll needles that are shown below, but sometimes you just need a longer needle for those larger doll heads!

When you’re rerooting with the needle and thread method, regular sewing thread just isn’t strong enough to endure all that tension, so you really need a strong thread. This card offers a length of thread that’s approximately 5 feet in length. These tiny elastic rubber bands are perfect for styling doll hair. They’re latex free, so they won’t disintegrate over time like latex elastics will!

Latex-free elastics above cannot withstand boiling water. These tiny elastic rubber bands are perfect for styling doll hair with hot water. Since they have latex, they can withstand hot water, unlike the latex-free elastics above!

Each elastic measures 1/3 inch in diameter. This glue is thick, not watery, and once it’s dry, it’s waterproof!

The color that is offered here will change periodically. All parts of the magnifier rotate 360 degrees. The magnifier also includes two clips, which are great if you want to attach a photo to use as a reference while you’re painting your doll. Her eyes are stiff to sleep from non use, she has full lashes (slight wear to lid wax). Body strong and sturdy but does have some wear/repair and all of lower legs/feet have had amateur restoration (please study photos). Her slim fully jointed “broomstick leg” body will have been overpainted at some time, minor wear to finger ends and amateur repairs to lower legs/feet. The bisque head has no chips, cracks or hairline damage. Wearing lovely antique/original dress, full undergarments, vintage shoes, all good apart damage to silk waist ribbon and underskirt. The composition body looks to have some form of mechanism inside (there’s a possible key hole?

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Baby has wear to her composition and age marks to limbs. A very sweet old baby who displays beautifully in adorable old knitted outfit with furry trim to bonet. Tony is fully jointed with velveteen and cloth body, rubber compound/pressed felt face and auburn mohair wig (untidy with bald areas but would probably comb over better). Tony has wear around base of neck (front and back), small nibble to lower cheek and there’s sprinkling of pin holes to back of neck too. Areas not covered by clothes such as face, hands and lower legs are age grubby with grubby marks to face. Outfit has small nibbles, light dust and fading but still displays well. Hat probably had decoration to head band as there’s area of glue residue as though something missing. The original paint is now worn with loss to finish around groin (small hole to tummy as you can see). Her lovely old crochet coat and bonnet are dusty with age. Gown is very old but probably not original as it doesn’t meet at the back. She has stiff brown sleep eyes (missing lid wax), closed mouth and wears an old pink knit dress and cotton “onesie”.

Doll Face Repaint

The painted bisque head has a few tiny scuffs to hair paint but no chips, cracks or hairlines. Wonderful detailed features, intaglio eyes and closed mouth. The mould number mark is very faint and tiny within the hair, looks to read 142. Wearing antique cream wool and tatty knitted “onesie”.

I started communicating over a year ago, at which point she had a ton of great ideas for a customization-themed guest review. First of all, you are going to need what feels like an incredible arsenal.

I personally do the vast bulk of my repaints entirely in pencil, but a lot of people prefer doing them in acrylic paint.

I believe it was actually formulated for resin ball-jointed dolls but is great for vinyl, plastic, whatever.

ANTIQUE DOLLS Diane’S Dolls and Bears

You must use it in a well-ventilated room and you ideally need a respirator. Those little fabric nose/mouth covers don’t protect against aerosol droplets, so you need something more hard-wearing and specialised. Sealant is also important as a base for any watercolour pencils. Without the tooth of a sealant to draw on, watercolour pencils don’t make any mark on the vinyl. Liquitex does a matte brush-on sealant, but brushing it straight onto penciled heads is going to do more harm than good, and smudge all your work. So really you’d need an airbrush, which is a really expensive investment. It usually needs to be warmed before use – very carefully!




It can attract dust, but a wet cotton bud usually removes it. So to start off, you will need to remove the factory paint.

You might want to tie back your doll’s hair and cover their clothes with clingfilm or foil or whatever. The residue comes off pretty easily with a bit of acetone but it can be a nuisance to be cotton budding doll hair when you could have just covered it with a bit of clingfilm.You’ll be able to tell when it’s dry because the whole face will be matte. It doesn’t have to be particularly neat as it will be worked over a lot, but you want something fairly even, and the line shouldn’t be too thick, especially for the inner eye. Just two black dots at the side of the lips to add depth and the illusion of shadow. If you’re going to do freckles, don’t feel that you should make them too neat and even – freckles aren’t like that on human faces. The first layer is – for me, at least – not anything impressive; it’s about getting the basic shapes and colours down.

I seal for the first time after putting down the pastels, because pastels smudge really easily.

Your First Custom Drawing The Face Step By Step [Part]


Your First Custom Part 2: Drawing and Painting the face!

I hope this step-by-step tutorial on how I approach a face can help you …

This starts by simply colouring in the sclera. It doesn’t matter too much if the white is streaky in parts as it’s mostly going to be covered up by the iris.

I generally do a few coats of white between sealant coats to get a good even colour. This helps to give her lips more of a defined shape.

I draw the waterline in pink or red depending on the doll’s colour scheme. The waterline usually isn’t entirely straight, and lifts up a little before the round sweep up to the upper eyelid.

You can play around with eyelashes for added drama; you can draw them super long and thick or even stick some fake ones on. Eyebrows are very expressive – you can essentially give any expression to any face scupt by changing the angle or height of the eyebrows. Holly’s a nice little thing, so she has fairly normal eyebrows. Remember that usually eyebrows are darker and more defined at the outer edge. No need to make them too perfect at this stage – you will add more detail later.

I add the lower lashes, which is quite fiddly, as evidenced here by my less than perfect lines!

I can go over the white highlight line to neaten it all up.I wanted to keep her eyeshadow fairly simple and autumnal to go with her red hair and freckles. The pencil needs to be really sharp for this or you’ll draw all over both lips as well. Here you can see she’s kind of starting to take shape, discounting the outrageously messy hair. The biggest difference is obviously the iris colour. Adding white highlights to the eyelashes adds a lot of visual interest, and makes them look a lot more dynamic, in my opinion.

I went over the sclera in white and now the colour is a lot more definite. At this point, most of the work is done, and the rest of the time on her will be spent neatening and editing, with minor detail work.

I always feel that these final stages add so much to the look of the doll – but it’s only a few little touches between this image and the previous one. The lip highlights are concentrated in the middle of the lips and the cupid’s bow.

I rub them with a cotton bud so they blend nicely with the rest of the lips. A quick coat of gloss on her lips and she’s done!

You’ll want to seal again before glossing, or you’ll smudge all the watercolour pencil into a muddy non-colour.

I sometimes get it wrong and over-render the faceup, but that’s ok – it’s a learning curve after all. A few final words on repainting more generally: it takes time to become proficient at it, unless you are some kind of savant. So don’t be disheartened if your first attempts aren’t anything to write home about.

I know it’s a bit of a cliché but the most important thing with any hobby is just to enjoy what you’re doing.

I also like that both of my dolls have brown hair with bright streaks of color.

I think this texture is from the factory styling gel. It’s so fun to play with this doll’s long silky hair and try to find ways of making the streaks of color compliment her rosy cheeks and dramatic lips. This is one of those cases where the up-close photography almost takes something away from the magic of seeing the eyes in their actual size. The caruncle of the eyes is also startlingly accurate–with just tiny hints of highlight and shadow here and there.

I am such a big fan of freckles on dolls, especially when they’re done this well.

I had so much fun photographing this doll. Charlotte does an absolutely incredible job with eye painting. This doll’s original outfit is not my favorite, but it hardly matters. Clawdeen a more elegant outfit that is worthy of her face. A plain black dress, for example, would make her electric green eyes look amazing.

I wasn’t completely happy with the texture of this doll’s hair, though.

I just attempted my first repaint ever and it didn’t turn out the greatest. It must take a lot of time and practice to get that good. Thank you both for sharing these gorgeous girls!

It awakens a lot of my artistic tendencies and makes me want to do a project!

Another example of how things are altered for dolls is the hands. So doll hands are extremely small compared to reality. It’s definitely a different approach than what is used on some other repaints. It’s a bit too shiny, and like you said you can’t use it on top of watercolor pencils (or wet paint), so it’s not ideal but it can be done. With the repaint, these girls look so soulful and pretty. Derwent pencils are softer so make more vibrant colour in my experience but that’s not always what you want!

Did you scroll all this way to get facts about art doll?

The most common art doll material is cotton.

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